Steel guide rods

[Justincase]

So does anyone run aftermarket steel or tungsten guide rods in their pistols? I've seen these for the Glock 43 and Sig P250 both of which I have waiting for me. Do they noticeably mitigate recoil and help you get back on target faster? I've watched a few videos, but you never know if some of the guys are just trying to justify their purchase of the rod. I've also heard stories of the tungsten one for the G43 going kablammo.

 

[gqllc007]

Tungsten ones are not necessary. I don't recommend them. No need for SS (stainless steel) guide rods UNLESS there is a known issue with the OEM ones or you want to change spring weights to work with your loads. For instance I have a SS guide rod for my Glock 34 and depending which barrel and compensator I would use with what load I had to vary the spring weight. Many S&W Shields have had major issues with their oem guide rods locking up so I have an aftermarket captured SS one in my carry pistol. It is one spring and not two and you don't use +P loads with it. I have had ZERO issues with oem Glock guide rods since the late 80's. I have had many many Glocks with zero issues so I don't recommend wasting your money on aftermarket guide rods for Glock. All of my Sig's came with a metal guide rod so no reason to change that either

 

[Uzi]

I think the only real advantage to a plastic guide rod is the lower cost for the manufacturer. No handguns I own have one, and for that I'm grateful. I know the first thing that a full auto glock conversion needs is usually a steel guide rod because it'll warp bad and even melt. I know very few people will be concerned with that and never run into an issue with it, but in my opinion It's not the best material to be using for a critical component exposed to heat, shock, and friction. I think at the end of the day, the one more likely to fail will obviously be the plastic one, so a steel replacement would be an upgrade and peace of mind.

 

[gqllc007]

I think the only real advantage to a plastic guide rod is the lower cost for the manufacturer. No handguns I own have one, and for that I'm grateful. I know the first thing that a full auto glock conversion needs is usually a steel guide rod because it'll warp bad and even melt. I know very few people will be concerned with that and never run into an issue with it, but in my opinion It's not the best material to be using for a critical component exposed to heat, shock, and friction. I think at the end of the day, the one more likely to fail will obviously be the plastic one, so a steel replacement would be an upgrade and peace of mind.

When I had my SOT with a Glock 18 we never used a metal guide rod. Just the oem and never ever had an issue with warping or melting etc.

 

[Uzi]

When I had my SOT with a Glock 18 we never used a metal guide rod. Just the oem and never ever had an issue with warping or melting etc.

How much did you have to use it? would you choose the plastic guide rod over a steel one? Hot many rounds in a short period of time were you going through while training?

 

[Podmonkey]

The guide rod has only one, little, simple job: keeping the recoil spring from bending and kinking on itself as it compresses. It is under no real mechanical load and does not need to be especially strong to do its job, remember the slide is wholly supported by the frame rails, except in some rare actions. Plastic rods are fine, the one in my PPQ has given no trouble. The only reason to replace with a metal one might be to add a little weight forward or for bling.

 

[gqllc007]

How much did you have to use it? would you choose the plastic guide rod over a steel one? Hot many rounds in a short period of time were you going through while training?

We ran a lot of rounds (1500-3000 at an exercise) and as you know the Glock 18 has a blindingly fast cyclic rate around 1200-1300 rounds per minute. The pistol performed flawlessly with the 33 round magazines. We used a shoulder stock to control it as muzzle rise is problematic. I will tell you that when I witnessed an installed vertical grip to the pig nose of an 18 that was indeed a disaster and destroyed the frame due to flexing. Glock replaced that frame. Never a guide rod issue with warping.

 

[Justincase]

The guide rod has only one, little, simple job: keeping the recoil spring from bending and kinking on itself as it compresses. It is under no real mechanical load and does not need to be especially strong to do its job, remember the slide is wholly supported by the frame rails, except in some rare actions. Plastic rods are fine, the one in my PPQ has given no trouble. The only reason to replace with a metal one might be to add a little weight forward or for bling.

That's what I was wondering about, mostly for the 43 since it is small and can be snappy. I'd assume a little weight up front would help with that a bit, but I was wondering if anyone had any first-hand experience.

 

[Podmonkey]

That's what I was wondering about, mostly for the 43 since it is small and can be snappy. I'd assume a little weight up front would help with that a bit, but I was wondering if anyone had any first-hand experience.

The weight may help, or the difference in mass may be imperceptible. Frankly small guns like the 43 are going to be snappy regardless of how much weight a guide rod replacement can add, which can only be so much. When I first started shooting my Shield I also found it rather snappy. But after shooting hundreds of rounds with it I have become comfortable with how it handles. Just put some rounds down range.

 

[Uzi]

We ran a lot of rounds (1500-3000 at an exercise) and as you know the Glock 18 has a blindingly fast cyclic rate around 1200-1300 rounds per minute. The pistol performed flawlessly with the 33 round magazines. We used a shoulder stock to control it as muzzle rise is problematic. I will tell you that when I witnessed an installed vertical grip to the pig nose of an 18 that was indeed a disaster and destroyed the frame due to flexing. Glock replaced that frame. Never a guide rod issue with warping.

Yeah, I'm aware. I've used a converted 17 with the 33rd polymer magazine a few times and the cyclic rate is indeed quick. Reminds me a bit of the suppressed mac 10 I used, although I fired the glock as a machine pistol without a stock. Damn they're fun though. I know they do operate just fine, but again there is no advantage to a plastic guide rod other than a cheaper cost to produce. For what a steel one costs, and the fact that the recoil spring does make contact with the guide rod... It just seems like an easy choice to me.

 

[gqllc007]

There isn't anything wrong with you switching to a SS guide rod. Matter of fact it is "simpler" than the oem one. Just make sure it functions well with your carry ammo. Will it reduce felt recoil? Doubtful It would take some porting to reduce felt recoil...and that porting would be a decent amount not the small amount on the PC shield. Your grip on the polymer may make it feel even more snappy. Look into a talon rubber or the Agrip for that

 

[Podmonkey]

Talon grip is proly the best thing to buy if you need a little extra help. Don't bother with lint funnel porting, don't bother with the guide rod. Unless you want it it for the bling, thats fine too.

 

[Justincase]

Thanks for the replies. Looks like they might just be hype, although I'm sure it couldn't hurt to replace a plastic piece with a metal one. Although who am I to question Glock reliability by replacing something they have confidence in that it'll work just fine?

 

[Frankly]

I actually own a Tungsten guide rod in my Glock 43 and it does noticeably help keep the muzzle down and improve the balance of a short gun. It's hardly essential but nice to have.

On a Glock I'd change the sights as a matter of course, absolutely essential. I also stipple my grips. Some of mine have gotten Apex extractors if casings fly funny.

On one Glock I upgraded to a KKM barrel and Apex flat trigger and groups shrunk significantly. Not necessary on a HD gun but it makes practice more fun to have something nice to shoot lots of rounds through.

I probably have 1000 rounds through my six month old G43, that break in helps more than anything else, it's still not a "fun" gun to shoot. I shoot 1000-1500 rounds per month between all the guns. Other than sights, mileage and ammo count more than any other gadgets or upgrades... Money spent on ammo and practice trumps upgrades.

 

[gqllc007]

Did you get it at the glockstore?

 

[Frankly]

Did you get it at the glockstore?

They made it, got it on sale at Taran Tactical.

Some of the Glock Store stuff looks hokey but what I've gotten - extended releases, magwells, etc... have all been good quality. Everything from Taran has been top notch.

 

[Marine Cpl]

How much did you have to use it? would you choose the plastic guide rod over a steel one? Hot many rounds in a short period of time were you going through while training?

It's not necessary. No one here is going to shoot this much and this fast.

 

[Uzi]

It's not necessary. No one here is going to shoot this much and this fast.

I like how from the very second he started shooting to when the guide rod not only melted and failed in 2 minutes and 41 seconds of shooting, you can also see it fly right out of the gun too.

You're wrong about people not shooting that much and that fast too by the way. Have you ever been to a machine gun shoot? Yeah, people are constantly shooting off thousands of rounds at these events in a very short period of time. Guns fail all over the place all day whether it's minor, or leaves the gun inoperable for the day.

It's not needed for a semi auto glock, but it's definitely an upgrade for either one of them which is still my point.

 

[gqllc007]

I have been to machine gun shoots before many times. Only the idiots with too much money ran their guns to that point of destruction. Many guys let theirs cool down and rest to avoid damage. There is no issue replacing your oem guide rod to SS but it is not necessary. You can destroy transferrables that way too. It's a shame. I had my never been fired UZI destroyed from a squib round and the subsequent rounds that followed. That was an accident due to the squib and A-Merc ammunition . It cost A-merc a pretty penny that day

 

[Catskillkid]

When I first got my Berretta 92 it was having some FTE and stovepiping issues. Somewhere along the way (I don't recall where) I heard that switching out the plastic guide rod for the metal one would help. I did and got a relatively cheap one off of Amazon if memory serves me correctly. For what it's worth the problem ceased shortly thereafter. It was also a new gun so it may have needed to be worked in some and the changing out of the guide rod may have had little effect.

 

[prambo]

I've always run full length, steel guide rods in every pistol I've had, where one was available. Always for the nearly guaranteed reliability of cycling wanted in real world situations.

That being said, IMHO, Wolff gunsprings are the overall best available. For peace of mind, I'd install a guide rod/recoil spring combo from Wolff. Also with Wolff, a series of different strength recoil springs is available from Wolff that allow some tailoring of the recoil pulse depending on the load you use.

https://www.gunsprings.com/GLOCK ®/All Models/cID1/mID5/dID116#121

My $0.02

 

[prambo]

I have been to machine gun shoots before many times. Only the idiots with too much money ran their guns to that point of destruction. Many guys let theirs cool down and rest to avoid damage. There is no issue replacing your oem guide rod to SS but it is not necessary. You can destroy transferrables that way too. It's a shame. I had my never been fired UZI destroyed from a squib round and the subsequent rounds that followed. That was an accident due to the squib and A-Merc ammunition . It cost A-merc a pretty penny that day

Garbage ammo. The only 2 failures (in 1000's of rounds) to anything, in this case FTE, in my XD service .45 were reloads with A-merc brass that made it through my culling step.

 

[gqllc007]

Garbage ammo. The only 2 failures (in 1000's of rounds) to anything, in this case FTE, in my XD service .45 were reloads with A-merc brass that made it through my culling step.

Agreed absolute garbage

 

[Defilade]

On a Glock I'd change the sights as a matter of course, absolutely essential. I also stipple my grips. Some of mine have gotten Apex extractors if casings fly funny.

On one Glock I upgraded to a KKM barrel and Apex flat trigger and groups shrunk significantly

Wow! You need a different gun! lol