1911 9mm occasional fail-to-eject issue

[Grimscale]

I'm terribly sorry to interrupt the exciting discussions on politics (FUKH), religion, health, the universe, etc., but I need advice on an issue I've been having with a recent 1911 purchase.

The gun:
TriStar American Classic II 1911 in 9mm.
Imported by TriStar from Metro Arms Corp, Manila, Phillipines.
5" barrel.
Spec sheet:

https://www.tristararms.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/American-Classic-II-Sell-Spec-Sheet-web.pdf

Fit and finish on the gun are great. The slide does not rattle and functions smoothly. The trigger is crisp.
When the gun functions as it should it is accurate and fun to shoot.

The issue:
Occasionally it will not eject the spent brass. It is not regular enough for me to determine an obvious cause, and is not dependent on magazine (I have the stock magazine that came with the gun as well as an aftermarket Magtech mag). I'd say it occurs once in every 25 rounds.
Using Winchester white-box 115gr 9mm jacketed ball ammo.
I've never had an issue with extraction, just the occasional fail-to-eject.

Doing a search on the forum led me to this thread:

Potential sources of FTE/Double Feed stoppages with 115gr ammo

I have a Girsan Regard which is a Turkish clone of the Beretta 92. All reviews and mentions online seem to indicate it's a high quality firearm. So far, I am in agreement but with a small caveat. I haven't been able to use 115gr ammo and have it reliably operate the firearm. Factory ammo...

nygunforum.com

This suggests the recoil spring on this 1911 may be a touch too heavy for the ammo I'm using. I don't have a lot of 124gr to test with at this time. Would it be prudent to try a slightly lighter recoil spring to see if the FTE disappear?

Since the spec sheet does not specify what rate the current recoil spring is on this gun, is there a way to test it myself to get a baseline for purchasing another?

Looking for advice on where to go next. I really like shooting this gun when it behaves.

 

[kev74]

First step is clean and lube.

Next, try some different ammo.

Third, stop limp wristing it. Grip the gun like a man! J/k

How many rounds do you have through the gun so far?

It's a nice gun. I haven't heard anything bad about them.

 

[dsdmmat]

A 12 pound recoil spring should be adequate for your gun.

You may still need to fit and tune the Extractor. Steve in Allentown Extractor fitting
The 1911 Forum has quite a few threads on TriStar guns.

Search results for query: TriStar

www.1911forum.com

 

[FP1201]

Tuning the extractor should help if not cure the issue completely... I bought one of these:

1911 Extractor Adjusting Tool Weigand

Adjusting tool for 1911 extractor tension—quick, reliable tuning for flawless function – Free Shipping!

www.jackweigand.com

and the Gauges as well:Weigand 1911 extractor tension gauge set

 

[gun_slinger_boy]

I wouldn't start mucking around with springs and such. If it's a brand new gun then it may just need to be broken in. Especially if it's tight like you say it is. A little rattle usually makes a 1911 more reliable lol. Break in along with ammo. It's cheap factory ammo. Some of the rounds may simply be loaded too lightly to make it cycle properly when the gun is still so new. I take it you don't reload? If you did you could easily make up some warmer loads and I bet there would be no stoppages. Again just keep shooting. Beautiful gun btw.

 

[FP1201]

I wouldn't start mucking around with springs and such. If it's a brand new gun then it may just need to be broken in. Especially if it's tight like you say it is. A little rattle usually makes a 1911 more reliable lol. Break in along with ammo. It's cheap factory ammo. Some of the rounds may simply be loaded too lightly to make it cycle properly when the gun is still so new. I take it you don't reload? If you did you could easily make up some warmer loads and I bet there would be no stoppages. Again just keep shooting. Beautiful gun btw.

Winchester "White Box" is typically the wimpiest stuff made....cheap for a reason.

 

[spat]

If you have a cell phone that can do a high enough frame rate slow motion mode, you might be able to measure the velocity of the slide and see if it is getting down to the low range of acceptable.

Would just need to have someone video it firing from 90 degrees to the side with a suitable background like a tape measure, then do the math.

That will at least tell you if it's a slide velocity thing, or of you should be looking at some burr or something in the mechanism.

Some cell phones can do a 1000 frame per second slow mode now, which would be sufficient.


IIRC, you're looking for the slide to recoil in the 25-30fps range during normal operation.

Slower and you'll get symptoms similar to what you describe, faster and it will cause undue wear and tear on the gun.

 

[Deplorable Me]

My new Springfield Armory 1911 in .45 had the same problem. I tuned up the extractor and it's been running fine with new ammo ever since. If you run reloads, look at the case head rims, some get beat up pretty bad from prior extraction which doesn't allow the extractor to catch.

 

[Grimscale]

A 12 pound recoil spring should be adequate for your gun.

You may still need to fit and tune the Extractor. Steve in Allentown Extractor fitting
The 1911 Forum has quite a few threads on TriStar guns.

Search results for query: TriStar

www.1911forum.com

I read through that thread, and will read through it a couple more times to make sure I fully understand what he is saying.
But a quick test on my 1911 shows the extractor needs attention.
It passes the "shake test", barely. The round doesn't fall out though the round wobbles a little.
Also, the "hook" is pressing against the case, not the tensioning wall, and the hook appears too far from the breech face, pushing the round to the side and not letting it sit flush to the breech face.

so... is it better to try fitting the stock extractor, or should I start with a quality extractor from Wilson or some other company?

*note: I ran some 124gr Pierce ammo and didn't have a FTE. But then I also ran some 115gr and didn't get a FTE either. So whatever is happening it is very inconsistent.

 

[C3D]

Very easy to fix. Disassemble the gun, taking care to remove the barrel bushing, barrel and recoil spring. Take all parts, plunge into garbage pail. Replace with a Glock 21. No more malfunctions.

 

[kev74]

I read through that thread, and will read through it a couple more times to make sure I fully understand what he is saying.
But a quick test on my 1911 shows the extractor needs attention.
It passes the "shake test", barely. The round doesn't fall out though the round wobbles a little.
Also, the "hook" is pressing against the case, not the tensioning wall, and the hook appears too far from the breech face, pushing the round to the side and not letting it sit flush to the breech face.

so... is it better to try fitting the stock extractor, or should I start with a quality extractor from Wilson or some other company?

*note: I ran some 124gr Pierce ammo and didn't have a FTE. But then I also ran some 115gr and didn't get a FTE either. So whatever is happening it is very inconsistent.

Sounds like the gun needed a bit of a break in period.

 

[gun_slinger_boy]

*note: I ran some 124gr Pierce ammo and didn't have a FTE. But then I also ran some 115gr and didn't get a FTE either. So whatever is happening it is very inconsistent.

The gun is breaking in. Soon it should eat anything you put in it. Don't mess with your gun!

 

[dsdmmat]

I read through that thread, and will read through it a couple more times to make sure I fully understand what he is saying.
But a quick test on my 1911 shows the extractor needs attention.
It passes the "shake test", barely. The round doesn't fall out though the round wobbles a little.
Also, the "hook" is pressing against the case, not the tensioning wall, and the hook appears too far from the breech face, pushing the round to the side and not letting it sit flush to the breech face.

so... is it better to try fitting the stock extractor, or should I start with a quality extractor from Wilson or some other company?

*note: I ran some 124gr Pierce ammo and didn't have a FTE. But then I also ran some 115gr and didn't get a FTE either. So whatever is happening it is very inconsistent.

I run EGW HD extractors in all my 1911 Builds or when I have a factory gun causing me fits.

 

[dsdmmat]

Very easy to fix. Disassemble the gun, taking care to remove the barrel bushing, barrel and recoil spring. Take all parts, plunge into garbage pail. Replace with a Glock 21. No more malfunctions.

Yeah not sure the ball rash he gets by having a Glock in the house is worth it though.

 

[Mk44]

Have you taken it apart and cleaned& lubed it since you brought it?
How many rounds through it. Maybe it still needs to be broken in.

 

[Uzi]

What is the deal with manufactures putting these shitty extractors in otherwise really nice 1911's?

Either the steel being used a lot of the time is physically too soft and lacking enough carbon content making it not suitable to be properly heat treated for essentially a tiny leaf spring, or they're simply not heat treating them properly. I have/had this same issue. Haven't test shot the gun since I tweaked the extractor as recommended, but I feel like I should just buy an aftermarket one that is good quality since it happened for one of those reasons. I think I'll say fuck that and just use one of my glocks because they are more reliable and better guns.

 

[dsdmmat]

What is the deal with manufactures putting these shitty extractors in otherwise really nice 1911's?

Either the steel being used a lot of the time is physically too soft and lacking enough carbon content making it not suitable to be properly heat treated for essentially a tiny leaf spring, or they're simply not heat treating them properly. I have/had this same issue. Haven't test shot the gun since I tweaked the extractor as recommended, but I feel like I should just buy an aftermarket one that is good quality since it happened for one of those reasons. I think I'll say fuck that and just use one of my glocks because they are more reliable and better guns.

I blame “The race” to cheap. 1911s are complicated machines, they are expensive to make and expensive to buy. Some manufacturers have been able to make inexpensive ones that work great by using casted frames/ slides and doing other things to keep the manufacturing cost down. Others have broke into the 1911 market by going with the jammonatic quality control approach of Bryce/ Raven/ Jennings manufacturing quality. Inexpensive can be good quality, cheap can never be quality.

 

[spat]

Have you taken it apart and cleaned& lubed it since you brought it?
How many rounds through it. Maybe it still needs to be broken in.

A break in period for a cheap or mid level gun is reasonable, but a high end gun that needs it should receive it at the factory.

If that means they need some custom machine that cycles the action 1000 times with compressed air down the barrel, then that's what they should do.

 

[Grimscale]

Have you taken it apart and cleaned& lubed it since you brought it?
How many rounds through it. Maybe it still needs to be broken in.

Yes, I took it apart a couple times and cleaned/lubed it.
I think it has around 450 rounds through it so far. It would be more but I trade off between that and my .45 1911 (which worked flawlessly ever since I bought it).