Depick
.308 Win
I was looking for some info on where and how much to lube my AR and stumbled on a few simple guides and figured I’d post em up.
AR lubing guide
- Thread starter Depick
- Start date
kev74
20×102mm Vulcan
My strategy for any gun is that anything metal gets a light coat of oil. I use a cheapie paint / chip brush to apply it. Anything with rub marks gets extra.
Eddie Gunks
.338 Win Mag
Grease is a bad idea.
Clp also not the best as a libe (he coats with it in the end) . Clp burns of at a low temp and does not prohibite rust.
gun_slinger_boy
.338 Win Mag
A first good step is to get a nickel boron group. It changes the whole game.
Grease is a good idea at certain points in the action, anywhere parts slide along with enough friction to create shiny spots. Iblike to grease the face of the hammer, the underneath on the forward portion of the carrier and around the gas key. I have been using BreakFree CLP since my Army days and have never had a problem with rust.
Aside from applying thin films of grease in the aforementioned areas I don't get all precise with the lube. I just spread a generous amount of CLP on everything and wipe it down so its not dripping everywhere in storage. On the range pr in the field I simply open the action squirt some oil in the port, close the action, repeat and cycle the action a few times.
Depick
.308 Win
I used some grease on the rails of the BCG and a little on the charging handle. Figured it’s a high wear area and couldn’t hurt.
I put some on the hammer face as well since the BCG is sliding back and forth over it at a very high rate. I didn't mention but I also put a little grease on the charging handle like you.
Depick
.308 Win
That’s a good idea with the hammer face
Eddie Gunks
.338 Win Mag
Grease holds carbon and filth then it becomes an abrasive.
You have the information, i explained why two products are not the best option, do what you will.
Btw. I believe the military has moved away from clp. I believe it can be absorbed through your skin. I will try and find the source. Wear gloves if you must use clp.
You have the information, i explained why two products are not the best option, do what you will.
Btw. I believe the military has moved away from clp. I believe it can be absorbed through your skin. I will try and find the source. Wear gloves if you must use clp.
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We are talking about a very light film of grease on a select few areas.
Grease is widely used in similar applications in all manner of mechanical devices. I just am dubious about carbon contamination causing grease to become abrasive. The fifth wheel of my truck is coated in copious amounts of grease and it has to be just lousy with diesel particulate contamination, but without grease the kingpin plate will bind.
I use clp for cleaning and mobile1 for lube.
Eddie Gunks
.338 Win Mag
Vapor
.308 Win
There are a lot of good non toxic cleaners and lubes.
I used slp 2000 or mp7 pro lines. They work well, are syth, and non lives. I have not tried the likes of go juice or frog lube just yet.
I used slp 2000 or mp7 pro lines. They work well, are syth, and non lives. I have not tried the likes of go juice or frog lube just yet.
shootemup
.45 acp
What about lubing the buffer spring/inside of buffer tube? I've never done it, but buffer spring does sound kinda dry when using the charging handle doing dry runs.
I don't actually lube it, but will run my oily rag around it just so it's not completely dry.
Exonautic
.308 Win
Picked up hoppes gun medic in a pinch when I needed it upstate. Take my bolt out, spray the piss it off it, give it a wipe down and I'm good to go. Every 500 rounds or so I'll run a few swabs down my barrel before and after a bore snake.
gun_slinger_boy
.338 Win Mag
Does anyone use just a gun patch and bore brush? I just take a brush and rod, put a patch on the tip of the rod and put a little balistol on the patch. Run it through the barrel a few times and then do the same thing with a dry patch. The barrel always comes out like a mirror.
BDSKJCHRIS
.40 S&W
Grease on something like a trailer hitch is being exposed to much different conditions than lubricant used in a rifle. not to mention the acceptable levels of wear/damage to the bearing surfaces on a 5th wheel are much more forgiving than that of a rifle. also, if you have ever seen how tractor trailers are maintained, every time they go into the shop, it is standard practice to clean all the old grease and crud off of the hitch and apply new grease. then you have all the other factors like heat, speed of movement, etc...
use grease if you want, (i used to use it until i was shown demonstrable evidence that it was bad for use in a rifle), but heavy oil works way better.
BDSKJCHRIS
.40 S&W
otis ripcord, i haven't needed to use a bore brush in a long time. i might break one out if accuracy is degrading though.