My AR build thread
- Thread starter Cleck
- Start date
naughty boy... Illegal af :O
Cleck
.308 Win
Nah @Dayten it's all legal with the SAFEmod added for the mag drop!
@Snappo As said, it's more of a preference. With how materials are these days, durability isn't really an issue. Forged lowers tend to be lighter, and some say the forging process makes them technically more durable, but they're all made out of high quality/grade aluminum, so not a huge difference.
@Snappo As said, it's more of a preference. With how materials are these days, durability isn't really an issue. Forged lowers tend to be lighter, and some say the forging process makes them technically more durable, but they're all made out of high quality/grade aluminum, so not a huge difference.
I can see using a billet receiver if you want something different, like this lightweight Battle Arms lower that is cut away more than usual. But for a standard build I'd be fine with a forged receiver because they are lighter yet still overbuilt. At least for a gun that's going to be actually shot and not displayed.
Now if I was doing an "ultimate" build I'd want a matched upper and lower receiver and not be mixing two different kinds... JP, Noveske, Mega, Battle Arms and other higher end brands actually choose and fit them. Heck you can even get Aero Precision matched sets and they're priced for mortals.
Now if I was doing an "ultimate" build I'd want a matched upper and lower receiver and not be mixing two different kinds... JP, Noveske, Mega, Battle Arms and other higher end brands actually choose and fit them. Heck you can even get Aero Precision matched sets and they're priced for mortals.
Snappo
6.5 Creedmoor
I had a problem with a pair of old lowers. When it became apparent that I would be moving back to NY, I ditched my modern AR's and bought a Colt SP1 and SP2 from the 1970's. I kept the modern uppers; and I purchased special pivot pins for that from Bushmaster. The feel between the upper and lower was rather loose; and the weapon could not fire a magazine of ammo without FTF/FTE. I was never able to solve that, and when the SAFE ACT rolled around I said screw it and sold them back in Georgia. Not worth registering with that stupid Nazi database, especially for weapons that were not reliable in a firefight.
The fit depends on how close it is to specs. There are only a few manufacturers who make the receivers, they just stamp different names on them.
Jews always get the best ones.
Mosinitis conflates any criticism of Israel with anti-Semitism. I suggested he keep his passive aggressiveness to the forum thread that had to do with the topic rather than carrying a vendetta throughout the forum since the poor guy simply wants to build his rifle, not solve the unsolvable.
Now to apply the ignore feature. Bye Asshooooo!
Now to apply the ignore feature. Bye Asshooooo!
ManrisFrack
6.5 Creedmoor
Forged is generally stronger. Basically it conforms the microstructure rather than chop it off at the desired dimension. Add to that, the fact that most of the forged lowers use 7075 rather than 6061 and I'd buy a $50 forged Anderson lower over Allstar's billet any day.
In practical terms though, how many of us have busted a lower? It'll perform just fine so buy what makes you happy.
In practical terms though, how many of us have busted a lower? It'll perform just fine so buy what makes you happy.
Personally I prefer mil.spec. for the simple reason. It will be compatible with any aftermarket parts. You don't think it's important until you actually need to put in something for your particular application. I always use standard parts, aftermarket parts only when needed.
Cleck
.308 Win
Wow, that was fun to return to work and read up on, lol.
How about we all play nice? Remember, this is a (my) gun build thread
I always get parts from AST or parts they sell, so I know I'm getting milspec, it doesn't make sense to use anything else. I'd like mine as compatible and interchangeable as possible.
How about we all play nice? Remember, this is a (my) gun build thread
I always get parts from AST or parts they sell, so I know I'm getting milspec, it doesn't make sense to use anything else. I'd like mine as compatible and interchangeable as possible.
Cleck
.308 Win
Update! I got a deal on a complete upper being built by AllStar that a previous buyer backed out on. I knew that piecing together the upper was going to cost more than this did, and the clerk told me that had he known what we just heard from the gunsmith (about the build and price), that would not have been available for me to purchase, lol. I guess a "right place, right time" kind of deal. By no means a smoking deal, but I figure it's pretty decent. It has some used parts (trade-ins from police), new/unused (bcg/charging handle/barrel), and free (sights thrown in). I don't know everything about it yet, so forgive me if I can't answer all questions. Again I will let the pics speak for themselves.
It's a 16" barrel, got a BCM charging handle (had an ambi on it, but I didn't like it, so he swapped for a regular one for no charge), BCM hand guard (I really like it), Yankee Hill gas block, and that's all I know for now. Unsure of the make of the bcg, barrel, and upper, but they were all for a build originally by AllStar, so I'll just assume they're their parts. I added the shorty BCM forward grip, and I really like that too. Whole setup is pretty light, and the color of the hand guard just makes me want to match the rest of the rifle. I will say that it looks a little goofy as such, but it does look much better with a proper magazine. That being said, I'm happy that I got a chance to get my hands on this and complete my build. Now I just gotta run some lead through it, see how it shakes down, get my sling, and think about what optic I want to add to it.
It's a 16" barrel, got a BCM charging handle (had an ambi on it, but I didn't like it, so he swapped for a regular one for no charge), BCM hand guard (I really like it), Yankee Hill gas block, and that's all I know for now. Unsure of the make of the bcg, barrel, and upper, but they were all for a build originally by AllStar, so I'll just assume they're their parts. I added the shorty BCM forward grip, and I really like that too. Whole setup is pretty light, and the color of the hand guard just makes me want to match the rest of the rifle. I will say that it looks a little goofy as such, but it does look much better with a proper magazine. That being said, I'm happy that I got a chance to get my hands on this and complete my build. Now I just gotta run some lead through it, see how it shakes down, get my sling, and think about what optic I want to add to it.
GOYABEAN
.950 JDJ
Double set screws on mag release looks good 
looks good 
Acer-m14
20×102mm Vulcan
what cal was this in 5.56 ? you shooting yet ?? // .. my friend and wife just got 2 ar's in 300 blackout and are having issues .. ...
Glad you like it, thats all that really matters. Not what I say or others say matters.
Me,,,never would of bought it without knowing who made the barrel.
Like you, not a fan of the discolored handguard or the shape of the handguard in general.
Dont like the front vertical grip at all and personally wouldnt put sights on my gun that didnt flip up or down.
Just my opinions though, which mean nothing in every day conversations.
Me,,,never would of bought it without knowing who made the barrel.
Like you, not a fan of the discolored handguard or the shape of the handguard in general.
Dont like the front vertical grip at all and personally wouldnt put sights on my gun that didnt flip up or down.
Just my opinions though, which mean nothing in every day conversations.
Eddie Gunks
.338 Win Mag
Those can be difficult at times. do they both belong to your friend?
Cleck
.308 Win
It's a 5.56 barrel, haven't shot it yet. I bought it on the way home from the range, lol. Soon I hope!
I agree with the sight sentiment, but at least it's ready to go now. Now I can nitpick it and change things, I can evaluate every time I shoot and go from there. The front grip works for me because I don't need a lot there. For me, it's all about speed/weight. I'll weigh the whole thing later and see where we're at. Like my buddy's first AR build, it'll probably change a few times as I move around and see what I like better. I may start with the sights, as I've used the flip up ones before and definitely enjoy them.
Will report back after first range trip. I had another trip on Friday that I still need to update.
I agree with the sight sentiment, but at least it's ready to go now. Now I can nitpick it and change things, I can evaluate every time I shoot and go from there. The front grip works for me because I don't need a lot there. For me, it's all about speed/weight. I'll weigh the whole thing later and see where we're at. Like my buddy's first AR build, it'll probably change a few times as I move around and see what I like better. I may start with the sights, as I've used the flip up ones before and definitely enjoy them.
Will report back after first range trip. I had another trip on Friday that I still need to update.
Acer-m14
20×102mm Vulcan
yes he got a zombie green and got the wife a lavender purple both in 300BO .. problems feeding and extracting .. both AR's are back
at the builder getting looked at .. hers just singles shoots any ammo , his ran the 120gr remington from walmart fine but not the
150gr we loaded h110 15gr , 15.5gr and 16gr powder charges .. both AR's identical cept for colors ..
BLAMMO!!
9mm
I love the look and finish of the billet lower, even though I wouldn't spend what most of them cost. Really nice.
But, ACH!!, that Keymod rail. I hate Keymod holes. They remind me of the adjustable shelving at Home Depot or Costco. At least M-Lok slots are just slots.
But, ACH!!, that Keymod rail. I hate Keymod holes. They remind me of the adjustable shelving at Home Depot or Costco. At least M-Lok slots are just slots.
Cleck
.308 Win
Haha, thanks. Usually I don't like the inflated cost of some materials, but I also figured this would be my only AR for a while, so I wanted a slightly nicer one, hence the spending on some of the quality parts.
Eh, keymod/m-lok, same thing, just different preference I guess. I've always liked the look of it and haven't ever seen an M-LOK in person before, so I guess I just went with what I know. Couldn't pass up a quality handguard like that either
S&W Fan
.475 A&M Magnum
A littl off topic here but, I'm new to the AR world and just picked up my first rifle. Can anyone suggest a decent carbine length m-lok rail for an Armalite rifle that won't break the bank?
Great build by the way. I'm already hooked with modifying this rifle somewhat,so I think I'll jump right in and build my next one.
Great build by the way. I'm already hooked with modifying this rifle somewhat,so I think I'll jump right in and build my next one.
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I went with an ALG M-lok rail, which you can install easily with their torque wrench. Also Aero Precision's handguards are priced very competitively.
Cleck
.308 Win
Feel free to post up a pic of the new rifle and an idea of what you want to mount. Afaik, the m-lok rails on Magpul's sight aren't that expensive.
Also I forgot to ask if you're using a front sight block or not. That'll change your options.
S&W Fan
.475 A&M Magnum
This is an ORC rifle so yes, it has a front sight block. That would make the front rail carbine length, yes? I'll definitely be measuring it before I order anything.
Yeah it would be carbine length. I guess I would look at Magpul, Midwest Industries, and Troy if I were you. They're all good brands. You would be looking for the "drop-in handguards".
S&W Fan
.475 A&M Magnum
Thanks for the input. I'll look into those vendors .
I've already ordered a couple of things from Strike Ind. but most of their rails are either too long or somewhat on the expensive side.
Cleck
.308 Win
I'm bumping an old post because I forgot to answer questions here that people had about how it shoots. Maybe I answered somewhere else. Either way, been thinking about this and I think for the time being, I may reuse my Bushnell scope that came with my Savage. I want something a little shorter, but 3-9 will have to work for now. Plus, mounts this case are cheaper than mounts and a new optic.
Thing shoots really nicely. The heavier buffer makes the kick on this really unnoticeable for the most part. I know they don't kick much to begin with, but this barely moves. Sighted in the iron sights for the most part just to get it straight, was a bit tougher since I didn't have my spotting scope at the time. I like how the whole package works. I think I'm also gonna put up a BF10 loader too, see how much better that works over my current setup. The single point sling sits right where I want it, and it perfectly sits right where I want it to when I bring it up to sight. I've been thinking upgrades, like a polished trigger, but that's for no reason and just cuz. Gotta get an optic on it and see how I like it then
Thing shoots really nicely. The heavier buffer makes the kick on this really unnoticeable for the most part. I know they don't kick much to begin with, but this barely moves. Sighted in the iron sights for the most part just to get it straight, was a bit tougher since I didn't have my spotting scope at the time. I like how the whole package works. I think I'm also gonna put up a BF10 loader too, see how much better that works over my current setup. The single point sling sits right where I want it, and it perfectly sits right where I want it to when I bring it up to sight. I've been thinking upgrades, like a polished trigger, but that's for no reason and just cuz. Gotta get an optic on it and see how I like it then
Eddie Gunks
.338 Win Mag
If you think it kicks less with a heavy buffer try a light one with a light carrier and an adjustable gas key.
Remember, equal and opposite reaction. A heavier moving weight will cause more felt recoil.
Mass X Velocity = Momentum.
So if the V stays the same and the mass increases so will the momentum (felt recoil). (The velocity is not slowed appreciably by the heavy buffer. But a heavy buffer can be 1.5 + times the mass )
It exacerbates pushing the barrel downward when the bolt closes. (Perceived less rearward because your should absorbes it. When it slams forward they is nothing stopping it except your support hand, and it usually pushes in down)
Just ask newton.
Remember, equal and opposite reaction. A heavier moving weight will cause more felt recoil.
Mass X Velocity = Momentum.
So if the V stays the same and the mass increases so will the momentum (felt recoil). (The velocity is not slowed appreciably by the heavy buffer. But a heavy buffer can be 1.5 + times the mass )
It exacerbates pushing the barrel downward when the bolt closes. (Perceived less rearward because your should absorbes it. When it slams forward they is nothing stopping it except your support hand, and it usually pushes in down)
Just ask newton.