Can anyone recommend a good way to remove the coating off an aluminum frame? I'm not sure what is coated with. I was thinking of stripping the paint off my Girsan 2011 frame.
Removing coating from aluminum frame
- Thread starter RooftopKorean
- Start date
Depick
.308 Win
Not sure how an aluminum alloy frame would hold up to media blasting. I’d say a chemical stripper of some sort would be my starting point. You would probably need to know what kind of finish is on it to get the stripper. Might be worth calling customer service to find out.
No contact number. They weren't even any help when I asked them what sights were compatible. i had to ask because I had heard they didn't use the typical Novak cut.
Saltwater60
20×102mm Vulcan
I would reach out to the manufacturer and ask them what the coating is and then research how to strip that coating off. As mentioned above media blasting is an option but be delicate with aluminum frames. Many different types of media out there so research what’s best with aluminum and aluminum alloys
Depick
.308 Win
Typical, as soon as they have your money they disappear. Give a gunsmith a call and act like you’re pricing it out and ask him to explain the process.
Saltwater60
20×102mm Vulcan
This wasn’t there as I was posting so disregard my comments posted minutes after this. That’s a shame. Where has the customer service gone these days.
I am a gunsmith but this is out of my wheel house.
S&W Fan
.475 A&M Magnum
Contact a professional firearm’s restoration and refinishing shop. They’re about the only one’s out there that will be able to help you out.
Found this on the internet:
“The Girsan 2011 has a matte black finish. The finish is some type of Cerakote, but the application isn't very smooth. However, there have been reports of finish degradation on the slide and internally on the long bearing surfaces.”
“The Girsan 2011 has a matte black finish. The finish is some type of Cerakote, but the application isn't very smooth. However, there have been reports of finish degradation on the slide and internally on the long bearing surfaces.”
Thanks, I guess my searchFu is weak.
My guess would first figure out if it's anodized or a spray-on epoxy and go from there: some of those paints are harder than woodpecker lips and short of soda-blasting it, chemically stripping will require some heavy duty stuff...Know anybody that Paints Aircraft? Aluminum Planes have incredibly hard finishes, and take specialty strippers to NOT fuck up the Metal.
Just want to strip the cerakote off the barrel and frame. I want to keep the slide black.
One way is very tedious. Someone on the Girsan Reddit group used 600 grit sandpaper to get off most of the cerakote, then went finer and finer and eventually polished it up. It actually came out very nice.
spat
.950 JDJ
If you know what the coating is, a good chemical stripper is probably best. A can of carburator rebuild dip can work wonders, and is meant for precision aluminum components.
If you can't tell what the coating is, that's worth a try. "Aircraft coating remover" is good for a lot of stuff too.
If it's not a polymer based coating then you might need mechanical removal.
Not sure if this would work for your application, but I've used it for other stuff.
Can you put the parts in a vibratory tumbler ?
Depending on the coating that may be the easiest solution. I use mine for a lot more than just cleaning brass.
I've used all sorts of media, up to aluminum oxide sandblasting abrasive.
Anyway, if you can find out what type of coating it is, that will help a lot.
This stuff works wonders on carbs, it comes in a 1 gallon paint can with a basket for soaking the parts. Just don't leave them in there for a week and you should be safe.
Berryman Chem-Dip Carburetor https://a.co/d/4Xcvt22
I haven't used this stuff since they removed the methylene chloride, bit the old stuff worked great. Dissolves most plastic and polymer based coatings.
www.rustoleum.com
If you can't tell what the coating is, that's worth a try. "Aircraft coating remover" is good for a lot of stuff too.
If it's not a polymer based coating then you might need mechanical removal.
Not sure if this would work for your application, but I've used it for other stuff.
Can you put the parts in a vibratory tumbler ?
Depending on the coating that may be the easiest solution. I use mine for a lot more than just cleaning brass.
I've used all sorts of media, up to aluminum oxide sandblasting abrasive.
Anyway, if you can find out what type of coating it is, that will help a lot.
This stuff works wonders on carbs, it comes in a 1 gallon paint can with a basket for soaking the parts. Just don't leave them in there for a week and you should be safe.
Berryman Chem-Dip Carburetor https://a.co/d/4Xcvt22
I haven't used this stuff since they removed the methylene chloride, bit the old stuff worked great. Dissolves most plastic and polymer based coatings.
Aircraft Remover
Rust-Oleum® Aircraft Remover is fast-acting and will efficiently remove all types of finish from metal surfaces.
+1 on this ^^^^^If you know what the coating is, a good chemical stripper is probably best. A can of carburator rebuild dip can work wonders, and is meant for precision aluminum components.
If you can't tell what the coating is, that's worth a try. "Aircraft coating remover" is good for a lot of stuff too.
If it's not a polymer based coating then you might need mechanical removal.
Not sure if this would work for your application, but I've used it for other stuff.
Can you put the parts in a vibratory tumbler ?
Depending on the coating that may be the easiest solution. I use mine for a lot more than just cleaning brass.
I've used all sorts of media, up to aluminum oxide sandblasting abrasive.
Anyway, if you can find out what type of coating it is, that will help a lot.
This stuff works wonders on carbs, it comes in a 1 gallon paint can with a basket for soaking the parts. Just don't leave them in there for a week and you should be safe.
Berryman Chem-Dip Carburetor https://a.co/d/4Xcvt22
I haven't used this stuff since they removed the methylene chloride, bit the old stuff worked great. Dissolves most plastic and polymer based coatings.
Aircraft Remover
Rust-Oleum® Aircraft Remover is fast-acting and will efficiently remove all types of finish from metal surfaces.
I hadn't thought about a carb cleaner dip, but hell yea, I'll bet that would work very well, just don't leave it in there too long...I was told the tail of one of my Dad's mechanics that put a carburetor into the dip bucket (back then, everything had a carb) then forgot about it over the long weekend; came back and there was nothing but the steel parts left....Bullshit?
Soaking the Frame in Brake Fluid might just do it too.
If abrasives are to be used, industrial Sodium Bicarbonate "Baking Soda" is the softest and won't peen the metal...Polished Aluminum is difficult to get adhesion to without etching Primers (Zink Chromate is the best)
While you didn't mention it: Should you decide to "polish" the Frame, one should use a "Low Speed" motor with dedicated Muslin Polishing Wheels and the proper buffing compound sticks, each mated to one wheel only (no cross contamination between flavors)
Taking your time, let the wheels do the work, and ALWAYS REMEMBER that machine will snatch your work and sling it across the Shop the second you get complacent. AMHIK.
Taking your time, let the wheels do the work, and ALWAYS REMEMBER that machine will snatch your work and sling it across the Shop the second you get complacent. AMHIK.
STS556
.223 Rem
Years ago I used to restore and rebuild moped and GoPed engines. Some have a lot of anodized aluminum parts that people wanted stripped and polished. Greased Lightning degreaser removes most anodizing by soaking the part for 24 hours. For more stubborn anodizing, Easy Off oven cleaner will remove it too but is a little more aggressive so don't soak for too long. Not sure if this method will work on the coating you have.
Bead blast it.
I dont own one and don't have the space for one.
Bead Blasters and Blasting Cabinets are very reasonable, but you've got to have Air Compressor and Tank enough, else you blast well for 45 seconds and wait five to build back up.
I actually saw a bench blasting cabinet on Harbor Freight for cheap. I guess that and a 135 psi 3 gallon tank compressor would be the same price if I paid someone to do it for me.
Thanks, I already saw this video.
Not to be dismissive, but that three gallon tank won't last more than 30 seconds which is frustrating as hell, HF has good deals on Blasting Cabinets and media...couple things if you decide to go "all in" one one: Gloves better than the Latex? ones that often come with the cabinet, and a shop-Vac for the dust, and at least wear an N-95 mask especially if you're using Glass Shot/Beads. When I had one at home, and always access to several at Work, you'll find it very handy for quickly cleaning damn near anything metal (just make sure you degrease it first as grease binds with the sand and clogs the pickup tube)
Ugh, I dont have room for anything bigger than a 3 gallon compressor.
Machine Shops, Automotive Repair, Places that specialize in metal cleaning/restoration, etc. might have a blast cabinet and would probably do it for free or cheap if it's just a bare frame...The soaking in Carb Cleaner idea sounds like a winner too: Small Engine Repair, Farm/Tractor/Machinery or even order a gallon (or any Auto Parts Store should be able to get one in a day)
The stuff I was looking for doesn't appear to be made anymore (good stuff isn't allowed to stay on the market)
This is another: GUNK Carburetor & Parts Cleaner with Dip Basket
This is another: GUNK Carburetor & Parts Cleaner with Dip Basket
I've used GUNK for my pickups coil overs when cleaning them up. Shit works great but stinks to high heavens. I've never used the carb one though.
spat
.950 JDJ
I've used the berrymans I linked above. Worked great. Used to get sold at every auto parts store, not sure if it still is. Gunk is probably similar.
Do you have a vibratory tumbler for reloading ? If not, do you want one ?
For small parts they can do a lot of what blasting does. Just slower, with less work.
Saltwater60
20×102mm Vulcan
Obviously you know your space limitations better than anyone of us do but there are plenty of air compressors that are the same base diameter just taller. I’m looking to buy a compressor myself. If you do buy one do not buy one from harbor freight. I have had two of them and the electrical issues on them are terrible. Both started on fire for me and I’ll never buy another harbor freight compressor again.